Niches / Washer lid switches

Size / fit replacement

Top-load washer lid switch and lid lock: Whirlpool W10404050 vs WP3949238 vs 3949247

On a top-load washer, the lid switch (older machines) or lid lock / latch (newer high-efficiency machines) tells the control the lid is closed. When it fails, the washer typically fills and agitates but will not spin or drain, or the lid lock light flashes. The parts are cheap and sold on Amazon as genuine Whirlpool OEM or aftermarket copies, but Whirlpool-family washers use several switch designs that look similar and are not interchangeable. This page helps you pick the right number from your model before you order.

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Who needs this

• Top-load washer fills and agitates but will not spin or drain
• Lid lock light flashing, or a lid lock error code (for example F5 E1 on some Maytag models)
• No click from the switch when you close the lid slowly
• Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Estate, Crosley or Admiral top-load owners

Check this first (free)

1. Listen for the click. Lift the lid an inch and lower it slowly. No click often means a failed switch or a broken actuator tab on the lid.
2. Look at the lid strike. A snapped or bent plastic striker on the lid will not press even a good switch.
3. Run the diagnostic test if your model has one. If the lid lock locks and unlocks in the test but the washer still won't advance to spin, the fault may be elsewhere (owners and techs often point to the shift actuator, for example WPW10006355 on many Maytag/Whirlpool HE top-loads, or the motor coupler on older direct-drive machines).
4. Continuity test. With the washer unplugged, a meter across the switch should read closed with the actuator pressed and open when released.
5. Do not bypass it. The lid switch is a safety device that stops the basket spinning with the lid open.

How to choose the right part

1. Read the full model from the label (usually under the lid or on the back of the console) and open its parts diagram, section "top and cabinet" or "console."
2. Identify the type. A latch that locks the lid during spin, with a harness and bezel on the top deck, is the W10404050 family. A switch you only hear click is a lid switch (WP3949238, 3949247 or another design).
3. Match the printed number on the old part to the diagram before buying.
4. OEM vs aftermarket. Aftermarket W10404050 copies are common and cheaper. Choose one only if the listing prints the OEM number and replacement numbers that match yours.

Comparison

FAQ

Is W10404050 the same as WPW10404050?

Yes. Retailers list WPW10404050 and W10404050 as the same lid lock and latch assembly.

Can I use WP3949238 in place of 3949247?

No. They are separate designs used on different models. Order the number your model's diagram shows.

I replaced the lid lock and it still won't spin. Now what?

If the new lid lock passes the diagnostic test, the cause is likely elsewhere. The shift actuator, motor coupler, drive motor or control are the usual next suspects. Check your model's service sheet before buying more parts.

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Quick reorder checklist

• Read the full washer model from the label
• Check the lid striker and listen for the click first
• Decide: lid lock/latch (W10404050 family) or lid switch
• Copy the number printed on the old part and match the diagram
• Unplug the washer before any repair